Resume – Ruedi Beglinger
Biography of Ruedi Beglinger
I grew up in a mountain village, in the Kanton of Glarus, in the Swiss Alps, in a family where mountaineering and skiing is "what you do". On weekends and during the summer holidays my family packed the packs with food and clothing and off we went, the destination a small hut in the high mountains.
It was naturally for me to spend time in the mountains, ski race, ski touring, hiking or climbing. It took me a few years until I realized how lucky I am, growing up in the mountains and having parents who have shown me what an amazing life the mountains give us, "we just have to recognize it". Already at the age of 15 I realized that steeper and more challenging mountains mean a lot to me. Hard alpine rock routes and mixed alpine faces became my playground. I was 22 years of age when I received the "Bergfuehrerpatent" (Mountain Guide Certification) by the Swiss and International Mountain Guide Association. My dreams became reality, guiding people on great alpine routes and amazing ski-tours and in addition I got paid. How much better can life really be.
In 1980 I immigrated to Canada and promoted European style ski-mountaineering in the Canadian Rockies and the Northern Selkirk Mountains, something which was at the time definitely not known in the USA and in Canada. It was a tough journey and required a lot of education of skiers about "my" style of guiding ski mountaineering. In addition, in 1985 I founded Selkirk Mountain Experience and built the Durrand Glacier Chalet, a remote alpine lodge in the heart of the Northern Selkirk Mountains. Finally, in the late eighties it all paid off. Guiding ski-mountaineering in Canada reached big success and became worldwide highly regarded. European style ski-mountaineering became accepted in Canada.
I can definitely say that I have the best life. Living with my wife Nicoline and the two daughters Charlotte and Florina at the remote Durrand Glacier Chalet. Guiding guests on great ski tours with endless powder and guiding climbing guests on long alpine rock routes... in an area where there is really nobody else except me and my guests. Every year, when the ski season comes to an end at Canada's Durrand Glacier I then fly to the European Alps and guide the Haute Route, Mont Blanc, Monte Rosa and great tours and peaks in many other areas of the Alps where the deep mountain culture is readable on every rock and mountain slope.
I think my biggest achievement is that I am able to have a deep passion toward the mountains and my profession, guide people in the most incredible ski terrain and take them on harder and easier alpine routes. For me it is not about all the extreme ski descents I have done, guide ski-tours year after year well over one million vertical feet while breaking trail in deep powder, that I have pioneered many ski traverses in Canada, managed numerous expeditions to high altitude peaks and achieved over 250 first ascents in Canada and the European Alps; all these activities is just what I do in my life. However, for me life is all about being able to share something with my ski and climbing guests, which means everything to me. Being in the mountains and life live "every day is the best day".
Resume: Ruedi Beglinger
Professional Credentials:
- I.F.M.G.A. Certified Mountain Guide, Canadian Mountain Guide Association (A.C.M.G) and Swiss Mountain Guide Association (S.B.V.)
- Canadian Avalanche Association (CAA) Avalanche Operations Level 3 (applied avalanche risk management)
- OEC Outdoor Emergency Care Technician
Professional member:
- Swiss Mountain Guide Association S.B.V. since 1975
- Canadian Mountain Guide Association A.C.M.G. since 1982
- Canadian Avalanche Association C.A.A. since late eighties
- International Mountain Guide Association I.F.M.G.A. since summer 1977
Background
Growing up: Linthal and Mollis, in the valley of Glarus, Swiss Alps
Started Skiing: Age 2 in Linthal, Swiss Alps
Family life-style as child: Mountain hiking, skiing, ski-mountaineering, summer mountaineering
My heros: Everybody who has a deep passion for the mountains and most of all my guests I get to guide in winter and summer.
First summer mountaineering tour: Gross Charpf 2794 m, Switzerland, age 5 with my father (some rock scrambling and overnight in a mountain hut, the Legler Huette).
First ski-mountaineering tour: Schilt 2300 m, Switzerland, age 6, with my father.
Youth Organization of Swiss Alpine Club: At age 14 joined the Youth Organization of the Swiss Alpine Club. At age 16 started to climb more challenging alpine routes across the Swiss Alps. Swiss Mountain Guide Association: at age 20 entered the training program to become a Mountain Guide. Passed the winter and summer Assistant Guide (Aspirant) courses in 1975. In 1977 passed all Full Guide courses and exams in St. Moritz, Switzerland. Became fully certified by the Swiss Mountain Guide Association (SVB) and the International Mountain Guide Association IFMGA.
1980: Immigrated to Canada on June 5th 1980.
1980: Level 2 professional avalanche certificate, CAA.
1981 to 1990: Two years full time and 6 years part time heliski-guiding in the Canadian Selkirk Mountains and Monashee Mountains. Also kept guiding in the Swiss Alps.
1985: Founded Selkirk Mountain Experience on June 14th 1985. Same year built the Durrand Glacier Chalet 1945 m.el, started guiding clients at Durrand Glacier in late November of the same year.
1986 to 1991: Instructor and examiner on Ski Guide and Mountain Guide courses with the Canadian Mountain Guide association ACMG.
1988: Built a second high alpine hut, the Mt. Moloch Chalet 2205 m. elevation, 8 km northeast of the Durrand Glacier Chalet.
1994: After 4 years negotiating with the Government of British Columbia, Selkirk Mountain Experience received from the Government of British Columbia all exclusive rights to the entire Durrand Glacier area. Helicopter skiing companies were no longer allowed to ski any parts of the Durrand Glacier area and also were no longer allowed to over-fly the area for heliskiing reasons. The Durrand Glacier area is the only ski-touring area in Western Canada which ever has received such exclusive privileges. The exclusive tenured area is 96.4 square kilometres or 23,821 acres in size.
2011: CAA Avalanche Operations Level 3 course.
"guiding guests in large terrain which offers beauty and wild challenges of the high-alpine is not just my deepest passion but also my inspiration"
Skiing
- 180 to 200 days of guiding ski-mountaineering and powder-snow skiing each season.
- Complete number of days guiding clients since 1975 on worldwide ski-mountaineering trips: 7045 days.
- Reached the seasonal 1 million vertical foot-mark while guiding ski-mountaineering 21 times (counting up-hill only). Last time 2015 (1.15 million vertical feet). Record year 1.35 million vertical feet in ski-season 2002.
- Repeated and pioneered numerous steep-skiing adventures, mostly Rodger's Pass BC and Mt.Moloch - Durrand Glacier area, Northern Selkirk Mountains BC
- Pioneered 10 ski-traverses in Western Canada Selkirk Mountains and Monashee Range)
- Guided the West Alp's Haute Route 63 times, different variations.
- Guided 10 ski-expeditions to the high altitude peaks of the Wrangle - St.Elias Range (Canada and Alaska)
Mountaineering
- Complete number of days guiding clients on technical mountaineering and ice / rock-climbing: 2965 days
- 251 first ascents (mixed alpine ice and rock, alpine rock routes, sport climbing, ice climbing)
- 4 high altitude mountaineering expeditions (Nepal, Alaska, South America)
Films
- LET IT RIDE: Locomotion Films – snowboarded in film
- AN DER INDIANERKUESTE: Suddeutsches Fernsehen – rock climbing in film
- LET IT RIDE: by Stephen Greenberg – documentary (skiing) film
Books
- Author: Revelstoke Rock, first rock-guide to Revelstoke rock climbing. ISBN 0-9733035-2-2
- Author & publisher: Revelstoke Rocks, second rock-guide to Revelstoke rock climbing. ISBN 978-0-9865009-0-9
- Author & publisher: The Hidden Alpine Gem, guide book to Canada’s most secret alpine paradise, the Durrand Glacier - Mt. Moloch Area. 294 Alpine Rock / Ice Routes, 384 pages
YouTube Videos
Skiing and climbing videos – cinematography and production by Ruedi Beglinger.
Guiding
Year | Area | Activity |
---|---|---|
1975 | Swiss Alps | Aspirant Guide courses, skiing mountaineering, climbing and mountaineering Working as Aspirant Guide in the Swiss Alps, ski-mountaineering, climbing, mountaineering. |
1976 | Swiss Alps | Working as Aspirant guide in the Swiss Alps, ski-mountaineering, climbing, mountaineering. |
1977 | European Alps | Full Mountain guide courses and exams in the Swiss Alps. Became internationally certified Mountain Guide with the IFMGA and SBV. Guiding in the Swiss Alps, Dolomites, West Alps of France ski-mountaineering, climbing, mountaineering. |
1978 | European Alps | Guiding in the Swiss Alps, Dolomites, Austria, West Alps of France Ski-mountaineering, climbing, mountaineering. |
1979 | European Alps | Guiding in Nepal, Kalagandaki Valley, Thapa Peak 6012 meters Guiding in the Swiss Alps, Austria, West Alps of France Ski-mountaineering, climbing, mountaineering (Haute Route, Mont Blanc). |
1980 | European Alps | Guiding in the Swiss Alps, West Alps of France. Ski-mountaineering, climbing, mountaineering (Haute Route, Mont Blanc). |
1981 | Canada European Alps |
Working as helicopter skiing guide in Revelstoke B.C. Guiding in the Swiss Alps, West Alps of France. Ski-mountaineering, climbing, mountaineering |
1982 | Canada European Alps |
Working as helicopter skiing guide in Revelstoke B.C. Guiding in the Swiss Alps, Italy, West Alps of France Ski-mountaineering, climbing, mountaineering |
1983 | Canada European Alps |
Working as helicopter skiing guide in Revelstoke B.C. Guiding in the Swiss Alps, West Alps of France Ski-mountaineering, climbing, mountaineering (Haute Route, Mont Blanc) |
1984 | Canada European Alps |
Guiding ski-mountaineering, rock-climbing and mountaineering in the Selkirks and Rockies Guiding in the Swiss Alps, Austria, Italy, West Alps of France Ski-mountaineering, climbing, mountaineering |
1985 | Canada European Alps |
Guiding ski-mountaineering, rock-climbing and mountaineering in the Selkirks and Rockies Guiding in the Swiss Alps, Austria, West Alps of France Ski-mountaineering (Haute Route, Mont Blanc) |
1986 | Canada | Guiding ski-mountaineering, rock-climbing and mountaineering in the Selkirks and Rockies |
1987 | Canada European Alps |
Guiding ski-mountaineering, rock-climbing and mountaineering in the Selkirks and Rockies Guiding in the Swiss Alps, West Alps of France Ski-mountaineering (Haute Route, Mont Blanc) |
1988 | Canada European Alps |
Guiding ski-mountaineering, rock-climbing and mountaineering in the Selkirks and Rockies Guiding in the Swiss Alps, West Alps of France Ski-mountaineering |
1989 | Canada European Alps |
Guiding ski-mountaineering, rock-climbing and mountaineering in the Selkirks and Rockies Guiding in the Swiss Alps, West Alps of France Ski-mountaineering, climbing, mountaineering (Haute Route, Mont Blanc) |
1990 | Canada European Alps |
Guiding ski-mountaineering, rock-climbing and mountaineering in the Selkirks and Rockies Guiding in the Swiss Alps, West Alps of France Ski-mountaineering, climbing, mountaineering |
1991 | Canada European Alps |
Got married to Nicoline Guiding ski-mountaineering, rock-climbing and mountaineering in the Selkirks and Rockies Guiding in the Swiss Alps Climbing, mountaineering |
1992 | Canada European Alps |
Guiding ski-mountaineering, rock-climbing and mountaineering in the Selkirks and Rockies 1.0 million vertical feet ski-touring Guiding in the Swiss Alps, West Alps of France Ski-mountaineering (Haute Route, Mont Blanc) |
1993 | Canada European Alps |
Guiding ski-mountaineering, rock-climbing and mountaineering in the Selkirks and Rockies 1.1 million vertical feet ski-touring Guiding in the Swiss Alps, West Alps of France Ski-mountaineering, climbing, mountaineering (Haute Route, Mont Blanc) |
1994 | Canada European Alps |
Guiding ski-mountaineering, rock-climbing and mountaineering in the Selkirks and Rockies 1.05 million vertical feet ski-touring Guiding in the Swiss Alps, West Alps of France Ski-mountaineering, climbing, mountaineering (Haute Route, Mont Blanc, Monte Rosa) |
1995 | Canada European Alps |
Guiding ski-mountaineering, rock-climbing and mountaineering in the Selkirks and Rockies 1.2 million vertical feet ski-touring Guiding in the Swiss Alps, West Alps of France Ski-mountaineering, climbing, mountaineering (Haute Route, Mont Blanc, Monte Rosa) |
1996 | Canada | Guiding ski-mountaineering, rock-climbing and mountaineering in the Selkirks and Rockies 1.3 million vertical feet ski-touring |
1996 | St. Elias Range, Yukon | Mt. Logan |
1996 | European Alps | Ski-mountaineering (Haute Route, Mont Blanc, Monte Rosa) |
1997 | Canada | Guiding ski-mountaineering, rock-climbing and mountaineering in the Selkirks and Rockies 1.25 million vertical feet ski-touring |
1997 | St. Elias Range, Yukon | Mt. Lucania, Mt. Steel |
1997 | European Alps | Ski-mountaineering (Haute Route, Mont Blanc, Monte Rosa) |
1998 | Canada European Alps |
Guiding ski-mountaineering, rock-climbing and mountaineering in the Selkirks and Rockies 1.2 million vertical feet ski-touring Guiding in the Swiss Alps, West Alps of France Ski-mountaineering, climbing, mountaineering (Haute Route, Mont Blanc) |
1999 | Canada St. Elias Range, Yukon European Alps |
Guiding ski-mountaineering, rock-climbing and mountaineering in the Selkirks and Rockies 1.15 million vertical feet ski-touring Mt. Logan Guiding in the Swiss Alps, West Alps of France Ski-mountaineering (Haute Route, Mont Blanc) |
2000 | Canada European Alps |
Guiding ski-mountaineering, rock-climbing and mountaineering in the Selkirks and Rockies 1.1 million vertical feet ski-touring Guiding in the Swiss Alps, West Alps of France Ski-mountaineering (Haute Route, Mont Blanc) |
2001 | Canada St. Elias Range, Alaska European Alps Nepal |
Guiding ski-mountaineering, rock-climbing and mountaineering in the Selkirks and Rockies 1.25 million vertical feet ski-touring Mt. Bona and Mt. Churchill Guiding in the Swiss Alps, West Alps of France Ski-mountaineering (Haute Route, Mont Blanc) Trekking Peak, Kalapatar |
2002 | Canada European Alps |
Guiding ski-mountaineering, rock-climbing and mountaineering in the Selkirks and Rockies 1.35 million vertical feet ski-touring Guiding in the Swiss Alps, West Alps of France Ski-mountaineering, climbing, mountaineering (Haute Route, Monte Rosa, Mont Blanc) |
2003 | Canada St. Elias Range, Alaska European Alps Ecuador |
Guiding ski-mountaineering, rock-climbing and mountaineering in the Selkirks and Rockies Mt. Bona and Mt. Churchill Guiding in the Swiss Alps, West Alps of France Ski-mountaineering, climbing, mountaineering (Haute Route, Monte Rosa) Cotopaxi |
2004 | Canada St. Elias Range, Alaska European Alps |
Guiding ski-mountaineering, rock-climbing and mountaineering in the Selkirks and Rockies 1.1 million vertical feet ski-touring Mt. Logan Guiding in the Swiss Alps, West Alps of France Ski-mountaineering (Haute Route, Berner Oberland, Monte Rosa, Mont Blanc) |
2005 | Canada St. Elias Range, Alaska European Alps |
Guiding ski-mountaineering, rock-climbing and mountaineering in the Selkirks and Rockies 1.15 million vertical feet ski-touring Mt. Bona and Mt. Churchill Guiding in the Swiss Alps, West Alps of France Ski-mountaineering (Haute Route, Toedi, Monte Rosa) |
2006 | Canada St. Elias Range, Alaska European Alps |
Guiding ski-mountaineering, rock-climbing and mountaineering in the Selkirks and Rockies 1.2 million vertical feet ski-touring Mt. St. Elias Guiding in the Swiss Alps, West Alps of France Ski-mountaineering (Haute Route, Monte Rosa , Mont Blanc, Berner Oberland) |
2007 | Canada St. Elias Range, Alaska and The Yukon European Alps |
Guiding ski-mountaineering, rock-climbing and mountaineering in the Selkirks and Rockies 1.1 million vertical feet ski-touring Mt. Logan Guiding in the Swiss Alps, West Alps of France Ski-mountaineering (Haute Route, Bernina, Monte Rosa) |
2008 | Canada St. Elias Range, Alaska European Alps |
Guiding ski-mountaineering, rock-climbing and mountaineering in the Selkirks and Rockies 1.25 million vertical feet ski-touring Mt. Bona and Mt. Churchill Guiding in the Swiss Alps, West Alps of France Ski-mountaineering (Haute Route, Berner Oberland, Monte Rosa, Mont Blanc |
2009 | Canada European Alps |
Guiding ski-mountaineering, rock-climbing and mountaineering in the Selkirks and Rockies 1.0 million vertical feet ski-touring Guiding in the Swiss Alps, Italy, West Alps of France Ski-mountaineering (Haute Route, Cevedale - Ortler, Monte Rosa, Mont Blanc) |
2010 | Canada European Alps |
Guiding ski-mountaineering, rock-climbing and mountaineering in the Selkirks and Rockies 1.1 million vertical feet ski-touring Guiding in the Swiss Alps, West Alps of France Ski-mountaineering (Haute Route, Monte Rosa, Mont Blanc) |
2011 | Canada European Alps |
Guiding ski-mountaineering, rock-climbing and mountaineering in the Selkirks and Rockies 1.05 million vertical feet ski-touring Guiding in the Swiss Alps, Austria, West Alps of France Ski-mountaineering (Haute Route, Oetz Tal, Monte Rosa, Mont Blanc) |
2012 | Canada European Alps |
Guiding ski-mountaineering, rock-climbing and mountaineering in the Selkirks and Rockies 1.1 million vertical feet ski-touring Guiding in the Swiss Alps, West Alps of France Ski-mountaineering (Berner Oberland, Haute Route, Monte Rosa, Mont Blanc) |
2013 | Canada European Alps |
Guiding ski-mountaineering, rock-climbing and mountaineering in the Selkirks and Rockies 1.0 million vertical feet ski-touring Guiding in the Swiss Alps, West Alps of France Ski-mountaineering (Haute Route, Toedi, Berner Oberland) |
2014 | Canada European Alps |
Guiding ski-mountaineering, rock-climbing and mountaineering in the Selkirk Mountains, Revelstoke, Rogers Pass and Canadian Rockies. Reached over 1million vertical feet of ski-touring. Guiding in the Swiss, Italian and French Alps. Bernina area, Toedi area, Haute Route, Mont Blanc area and Monte Rosa massive (Zermatt). Guided the West Alps Haute Route 64 times. |
2015 | Canada European Alps |
Guiding ski-mountaineering, rock-climbing and mountaineering in the Selkirk Mountains, Monashee Mountains, Rogers Pass and Revelstoke. Guiding in Swiss, Italian and French Alps. Bernina area, Toedi area, Monte Rosa - Dufour Spitze / Zumstein Spitze. |
2016 to 2019 |
Canada European Alps Lyngen Alps, Norway |
Guiding ski-mountaineering, rock-climbing and mountaineering in the Selkirk Mountains, Monashee Mountains, Rogers Pass and Revelstoke. Guiding in Swiss, and Italian Alps. Bernina area, Toedi area, Grand Paradiso Guiding ski-mountaineering, rock-climbing and mountaineering in the Selkirk Mountains, Monashee Mountains, Rogers Pass and Revelstoke. |
Ruedi's most favoured alpine routes
Canada: | Europe: |
---|---|
Mt. Alberta (Japanese Route), Canadian Rockies Mt. Temple East Ridge, Canadian Rockies Mt. Robson (Kain Route), Canadian Rockies Mt. Sir Donald (NW Ridge), Rogers Pass Mt. Tupper (Tupper Couloir - East Ridge), Rogers Pass Mt. Sir Sanford (NW Ridge), Northern Selkirks Mt. Tupper Integral East Ridge, Rogers Pass Mt. Rogers West Ridge, Rogers Pass Swiss Peaks Traverse (Rogers Pass) Mt. Moloch East Ridge – South Face Route, Durrand Glacier Northern Selkirks Salbyt Peak (Innominata Ridge), Durrand Glacier Northern Selkirks Concordia Pillar (Viva La Vita), Durrand Glacier Northern Selkirks Fridolin Peak (Fridolin Ridge), Durrand Glacier Northern Selkirks Silent Peak (Domino Ridge), Durrand Glacier Northern Selkirks Zwilling’s East (Table Ridge), Durrand Glacier Northern Selkirks Mt. Baal, Durrand Glacier Northern Selkirks Mt. Adamant (Integral NorthRidge), Northern Selkirks Mt. Adamant (NE Ridge), Northern Selkirks Howsers Spire (Beckey – Choinard), Bugaboo Mountains Bugaboo Spire (NE Ridge), Bugaboo Mountains Mt. Begbie (Integral Traverse east to west), Revelstoke Pan America (Victor Lake Wall), Revelstoke |
Eiger East Ridge (Mitellegi Grat), Swiss Alps Finsteraarhorn, Swiss Alps Monte Rosa Traverse, Swiss Alps Liskamm Traverse, Swiss Alps Toedi (West Face), Swiss Alps Bernina (Bianca Grat), Swiss Alps Salbitschijn (Westgrat), Swiss Alps Wisshorn (Nordgrat), Swiss Alps Nadelhorn – Lenzspitze – Dom Traverse, Swiss Alps Obergabelhorn – Wellenkuppe Traverse, Swiss Alps Mont Blanc Traverse, French Alps Mont Blanc du Tacul (Gervasutti Pillar), French Alps Mont Blanc (Brenva Spur), French Alps Mont Blanc (Peuterey Ridge), French Alps Grand Jorasses (Rochefort Ridge), French Alps Matterhorn (Zmuttgrat), Swiss Alps |
Ski Traverses in Canada
Year | Area | Route |
---|---|---|
1983 | Southern Selkirk Mountains | Rogers Pass - Albert Ice Field - Revelstoke (pioneered route) |
1983 | Northern Selkirk Mountains | Sale Mountain - Albert Canyon (pioneered route) |
1984 | Southern Monashee Mountains | Rainbow Creek - Mt.Skade - Mt.Macpherson - Revelstoke (guiding one client, pioneered route) |
1993 | Northern Monashee Mountains | Borne Glacier – Bew Creek – Malakwa (guiding clients, pioneered route) |
1994 | Northern Selkirk Mountains | Austerity Creek - Ed Falls Glacier - Adamant Glacier - Stitt Creek (guiding clients, pioneered route) |
1995 | Northern Monashee Mountains | Borne Glacier - Bew Creek - Malakwa (guiding clients) |
1995 | Southern Selkirk Mountains | Butter's Lake - Mt.Wheeler - Augustine Pk - Purity Pk - Van Horne Neve (guiding Clients, pioneered route) |
1996 | Northern Selkirk Mountains | Argentine Glacier - Mt.Sorcerer - Mt.Baal (guiding clients, pioneered route) |
1996 | Northern Monashee Mountains | Borne Glacier - Bew Creek - Malakwa (guiding clients) |
1997 | Northern Monashee Mountains | Borne Glacier - Bew Creek - Malakwa (guiding clients) |
1998 | Southern Selkirk Mountains | Battle Brook - Moby Dick - Prodeus Glacier - Charybdis Pk - Kelly Creek (guiding Clients, pioneered route) |
1999 | Northern Monashee Mountains | Borne Glacier - Bew Creek - Malakwa (guiding clients) |
2000 | Northern Selkirk Mountains | Sorcerer Mountain - Mt.Holway - Mt.Baal - Durrand Glacier (guiding clients, pioneered route) |
2001 | Northern Monashee Mountains | Borne Glacier - Bew Creek - Malakwa (guiding clients) |
2002 | Southern Monashee Mountains | Mt.Skade - Mt.Begbie - Revelstoke (guiding clients) |
2009 | Northern Selkirk Mountains | Mt.Holway - Mt.Sisson - Mt.Baal - Mt.Graham - Durrand Glacier (guiding clients) |
2010 | Northern Monashee Mountains | Borne Glacier - Big Eddy Glacier - Frysby Glacier - Jordan Creek |
2011 | Northern Monashee Horse Shoe | Hat Pk – Big Eddy Glacier – Egg Horn – Frisby Glacier – Schrund Pk – Frisby Creek – Immagination Pk (guiding clients, pioneered route) |
2014 | Southern Monashee Ski-Traverse | Mt. Skade to Mt. Begbie |
Ruedi’s most favourite Steep Skiing Lines
Year/ Area | Route | |
---|---|---|
1981 - Canada | Southern Monashee Mountains, Mt.Begbie, NW-Face | 300/2000 v.m. up to 45º |
1982 - Canada | Roger's Pass, Mt.Roger's, SW-Couloir on W-Ridge | 350/1580 v.m. up to 50º |
1982 - Canada | Roger's Pass, Mt.Sifton, SE-Face Couloir | 320/1600 v.m. up to 55º |
1982 - Canada | Roger's Pass, Mt.Sifton, North Face | 400/1000 v.m. up to 45º |
1983 - Canada | Southern Monashee Range, Mt.Begbie, Direct North Face | 300/2000 v.m. up to 50º |
1983 - Canada | Roger's Pass, Mt.Smart, Direct North Face to Smart Creek and to Illecillawaet River (ascent and descent) |
750/1750 v.m. up to 50º |
1984 - Canada | Roger's Pass, Mt.Boney, North Face - Hanging Glacier | 500/1900 v.m. up to 58º |
1984 - Canada | Northern Selkirk Mtn. Mt.Klotz, Direct North Face | 450/800 v.m. up to 45º |
1986 - Canada | Roger's Pass, Tupper - Camels, South Couloir | 1000/1600 v.m. up to 50º |
1986 - Canada | Roger's Pass, Mt. MacDonald, Herdman Couloir | 300/1400 v.m. up to 50º |
1986 - Canada | Durrand Glacier, Mt.Durrand, direct North Face | 500/1000 v.m. up to 45º |
1988 - Canada | Durrand Glacier, Mt.Durrand, Center Couloir | 500/1000 v.m. up to 55º |
1988 - Canada | Roger's Pass, Avalanche Peak, NW Couloir - NRC Gully | 600/1450 v.m. up to 50º |
1988 - Canada | Roger's Pass, Mt. Green, North Couloir to Illecillawaet River (ascent and descent) |
1500 v.m. up to 55º |
1989 - Canada | Durrand Glacier, Concordia Pillar, S Couloir | 350/1000 v.m. up to 50º |
1989 - Canada | Durrand Glacier, Mt.Graham, Y-Couloir | 770/1000 v.m. up to 55º |
1989 - Canada | Durrand Glacier, Concordia Pillar, Center-Couloir | 350 v.m. up to 60º |
1990 - Canada | Durrand Glacier, Zwilling's East Peak, East Face Couloir | 300/1000 v.m. up to 45º |
1990 - Canada | Northern Selkirk Mountains, Mt.Saint Cyr, North Face | 650/1200 v.m. up to 45º |
1990 - Canada | Durrand Glacier, Innominata Tower, North Face | 600/800 v.m. up to 45º |
1994 - Canada | Mt.Baal North Face (standart route) | 300/1500 v.m. up to 45º |
1995 - Canada | Augustine Peak, S Selkirks | 500/900 v.m. up to 45º |
1995 - Canada | Augustine Peak, S Selkirks | 500/900 v.m. up to 45º |
1997 - Canada | Durrand Glacier, Tumbledown Mtn, Direct South Face Couloir | 850/1300 v.m. up to 50º |
1998 - Canada | St.Elias Range, Mt.Logan 5995 m el, snow-board | Up to 45º |
2000 - Canada | St.Elias Range, Mt.Steel 5080 m.el, snow-board descent | Up to 40º |
2000 - Canada | St. Elias Range, Mt.Lucania 5230 m. el, snow-board descent | Up to 40º |
2000 - Canada | Durrand Glacier, Mt.Durrand, East Ridge Couloir | 600/1000 v.m. up to 45º |
2002 - Alaska | Wrangle - St.Elias Range, Mt.Bona 5010 m.el. | Up to 40º |
2004 - Canada | Durrand Glacier, Mt.Graham, East Face | 500/1600 v.m. up to 48º |
2009 - Canada | Durrand Glacier, Mt.Graham, NE Face | 800/1800 v.m. up to 55º |
High Altitude Expeditions
Year | Area | |
---|---|---|
1979 | Nepal | Guiding in Nepal, Thapa Peak 6012 meters, Kalagandaki Valley (climbing, guiding clients) |
1996 | St. Elias Range, Yukon | Mt. Logan (skiing, guiding clients) |
1997 | St. Elias Range, Yukon Nepal |
Mt. Lucania (skiing, guiding clients) Mt. Steel (skiing, guiding clients) Manaslu (climbing, not successful) |
1999 | St. Elias Range, Yukon | Mt. Logan (skiing, guiding clients) |
2001 | St. Elias Range, Yukon Nepal |
Mt. Bona, Mt. Churchill (skiing, guiding clients) Trekking Peak, Kalapatar |
2003 | St. Elias Range, Yukon Ecuador |
Mt. Bona and Mt. Churchill Cotopaxi (climbing, guiding my daughter Charlotte, 10 years of age at the time) |
2004 | St. Elias Range, Yukon | Mt. Logan, Mt. Aina (skiing, guiding clients) |
2005 | St. Elias Range, Alaska | Mt. Bona, Mt. Churchill (skiing, guiding clients) |
2006 | St. Elias Range, Alaska | Mt. St. Elias (climbing, guiding one client) |
2008 | St. Elias Range, Alaska and Yukon | Mt. Logan, skiing, guiding clients |
2009 | St. Elias Range, Alaska | Mt. Bona, Mt. Churchill (skiing, guiding clients) |
First Ascents – Mixed Mountaineering, Alpine Rock, Sport Climbing and Ice Climbing
251 first ascents while guiding clients and with friends.
Location | Route Name | Difficulty | Length of Climb |
---|---|---|---|
1977 Swiss Alps | |||
Klausen, Gabchopf | Fasnachtsverschneidung | V (5.9) | 7 pitches |
Klausen, Signalstock | Direkte Sudwand | VI A0 (5.10b, A0) | 13 pitches |
1978 Italy | |||
Mont Blanc du Maudit | Country Couloir | WI 5 | 600 v.meter |
1979 Swiss Alps | |||
Urneralpen, Herefellifluh | Eskaminzin | VII (5.10d) | 7 pitches |
1982 Canada | |||
Southern Selkirk Mountains | South Albert Pk, North Ridge | PD+ 5.5 | 600 v.meters |
Monashee Mt. Range | Mt. Begbie: 3 Summit Intergral East to West | D- 5.8 | 2.5 km |
1983 Canada | |||
Roger's Pass | Mt.Smart, Direct North Couloir from Illecillawaet River (ascent/ski-descent) | 45 degr. | 1800 v. meters. |
Southern Monashee's | Mt. Begbie, direct North Face (ascent/ski-descent) | 55 degr. | 300 v.meters |
Revelstoke BC | Revi-Dam Fall | WI 4 | 2 pitches |
Roger's Pass BC | Mt. Cheops S-Face, The Line | WI 5 | 150 v.meters |
Roger's Pass BC | Hermit Mtn, North Buttress | TD- 5.10a | 500 v.meters |
Roger's Pass BC | Swiss Pk, South Couloir | AD 5.7 | 250 v.meters |
Roger's Pass BC | Tupper - Camels, South Couloir - East Ridge | AD+ 5.7 / 50 degr. | 1000 v.meter |
N.Selkirks, Gothics Range | Pioneer Pk, Left NE-Buttress | D 5.8 / 45 degr. | 230 v.meter |
N.Selkirks, Gothics Range | Pioneer Pk, Right NE Buttress | D 5.9 . 45 degr. | 230 v.meter |
1985 Canada | |||
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier | Mt.Ruth, NW Face | PD 50 degr. | 220 v.meter |
Three Valley Gap BC | Beside Hotel, The Fine Line | WI 5 | 120 v.meter |
1986 Canada | |||
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier | Canadian Cliff, Water Symphony | 5.11a | 7 pitches |
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier | Allalin Pk. - Mt.Durrand Inferno Traverse | PD 5.4 / 50 degr. | 4 km. |
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier | Snow Cap, NE-Face | PD 50 degr. | 150 v.meter |
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier | Symphony Pk, South Ridge | PD 4th to 5.5 | 0.5 km |
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier | Centrale Pk, NW-Ridge | PD 4th to 5.5 | 300 v.meters |
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier | Centrale Pk, North Face | PD 45 degr. | 300 v.meters |
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier | Mt.Durrand, Direct North Face | PD 5.7 / 45 degr. | 500 v.meter |
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier | Mt.Durrand, Direct E-Ridge Couloir | TD- 5.9+ / 55 degr. | 550 v.meter |
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier | Mt.Durrand, West Ridge | PD- 4th to 5.5 | 220 v.meter |
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier | Diamond Pk, SW-Ridge | PD- 4th to 5.2 | 300 v.meter |
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier | Diamond Pk, Pioneer Buttress | D- 5.8 | 300 v.meter |
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier | Diamond Pk, Explorer Face | D- 5.8 | 350 v.meter |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Salbyt Pk, NW-Ridge | TD 5.10a | 360 v.meter |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Hidden Pk, North Buttress | TD- 5.10a | 360 v.meter |
1987 Canada | |||
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier | Tumbledown Mtn, SW-Ridge | D- 5.5 / 45 degr. | 950 v.meter |
1988 Canada | |||
Roger's Pass, BC | Avalanche Peak, NW-Couloir - NRC Couloir (ascent / ski-descent) | 55 degr. | 700 v.meters |
Roger's Pass, BC | Mt. Green, NW Couloir from Illecillawaet River (ascent / ski-descent) | 47 degr. | 1450 v.meters |
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier | Bastille, East Face | PD 45 degr. | 200 v.meter |
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier | Mt.Durrand East Ridge Couloir - East Ridge | D 5.9 / 45 dgr. | 550 v.meter |
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier | Mt.Ruth, West Ridge | PD- 4th to 5.5 | 300 v.meter |
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier | Eagle Pk - Mt.Fang Mozart's Skywalk | PD- 4th to 5.6 | 1.4 km. |
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier | Eagle Pk, Centre Couloir | D 5.8 / 50 degr. | 200 v.meter |
1989 Canada | |||
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier | Eagle Pk, West Ridge | PD- 4th to 5.5 | 200 v.meters |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Mt.Fang, NE-Face | D- 5.6 / 45 degr. | 230 v.meter |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Point Juliana, Juliana Tongue | D+ 50 to 65 degr. | 5 pitches |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Fridolin Pk, East Ridge | PD- 4th to 5.6 | 340 v.meter |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Zwilling's East Pk NE-Couloir - North Ridge | D 5.6 / 45 degr | 300 v.meter |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Mt.Graham, Super Couloir | D- 45 degr. | 800 v.meter |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Mt.Graham, NW-Face | D 5.5 / 45 degr. | 1000 v.meter |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Mt.Fang North Couloir - Southeast Ridge | D 5.9 | 320 v.meter |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Mt.Graham, Y-Couloir | D+ 5.6 / 55 degr. | 880 v.meter |
1990 Canada | |||
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Innominata Tower, North Ridge | D- 5.7 | 300 v.meter |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Salbyt Pk, Upper Innominata Ridge | D 5.9 | 500 v.meter |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Empress Pk, North Ridge | PD 5.6 | 1 km. |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Empress Pk, Old West Face Slabs | D 5.9 | 5 pitches |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Fridolin Pk, Fridolin Ridge | TD 5.10d | 17 pitches |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Zwilling's East Pk, South Ridge | TD 5.10c | 19 pitches |
1991 Canada | |||
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier | Mt. La Forme, South Ridge | PD- 4th to 5.5 | 300 v.meter |
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier | Point Juliana, North Face | D+ 5.8, 60 degr | 520 v.meter |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Sentinel Pk, South Ridge | D- 5.8 | 0.7 km |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Silent Pk, West Ridge (Standard Route) | PD 5.6 | 520 v.meter |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Silent Pk, Domino Ridge | PD+ 5.7 | 320 v.meter / 1 km |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Silent Pk, Old South Face Route | D+ 5.10a | 13 pitches |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Mt. Moloch South Face Gully | D+ 5.6 / 50 degr. | 300 v.meter |
1992 Canada | |||
Albert Canyon, BC | Dark Side Of The Moon | 5.12a | 2 pitches |
Albert Canyon, BC | Lauretta Slabs, Koby's Wild Ride | 5.10a | 3 pitches |
Albert Canyon, BC | Lauretta Slabs, Stranger's In The Night | 5.10d | 3 pitches |
Albert Canyon, BC | Lauretta Slabs, Images In Flight | 5.11a | 2 pitches |
Albert Canyon, BC | Lauretta Slabs, Phantom Of The Opera | 5.11b | 2 pitches |
Selkirks, Moloch Range | Silent Peak - Sentinel Peak Rings Of Exposure | D- 5.8 | 500 v.meter / 2.4 km |
1993 Canada | |||
Albert Canyon, BC | Lauretta Slabs, Via Charlotte | 5.10a | 7 pitches |
Revelstoke, BC | Begbie Bluffs, Sound Of The Water | 5.11a | 1 pitch |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Zwilling's West, West Face | D 5.9 | 230 v.meter |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Mt.Moloch, North Face | ED1+ 5.10a/45 degr | 1100 v.meter |
Albert Canyon, BC | Lauretta Slabs, Rigoletta | 5.11a | 1 pitch |
Albert Canyon, BC | Lauretta Slabs, La Traviata | 5.11d | 2 pitches |
Revelstoke, BC | Begbie Bluffs, Via Florina | 5.12a | 1 pitch |
Revelstoke, BC | Begbie Bluffs, Flushdance | 5.11a | 1 pitch |
Revelstoke, BC | Begbie Bluffs, Supertramp | 5.11a | 1 pitch |
Revelstoke, BC | Begbie Bluffs, Superlative | 5.11b | 1 pitch |
1995 Canada | |||
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier | Twin Fall Cliff, Slab Waltz | 5.9 | 7 pitches |
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier | Carnes Cliff, Serac Sprinter | 5.10a | 6 pitches |
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier | Canadian Cliff, Waterfall Ballet | 5.10a | 7 pitches |
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier | Mt. La Forme, NE-Ridge | D 5.9 | 300 v.m. / 0.8 km |
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier | La Forme Spire, (Standard Route) | AD- 4th | |
1996 Canada | |||
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier | Canadian Cliff, Vagabond | 5.10a | 5 pitches |
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier | Canadian Cliff, New York Buzz | 5.9 | 5 pitches |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Area | White Fang, NW-Couloir | D 5.9+ / 45 degr. | 300 v.meter |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Area | Grey Fang, SW-Ridge | TD- 5.10a | 270 v.meter / 1 km |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Area | Zwilling's East, East Ridge | D 5.8 | 360 v.meter / 0.8 km |
1997 Canada | |||
Revelstoke, Begbie Bluffs | Paper-Cut | 5.12c | 1 pitch |
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier | Tumbledown Mtn, South Face Gully | D 5.6 / 55 degr. | 950 v.meter |
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier | Carnes Peak, East Face | D 5.8 / 45 degr. | 450 v.meter |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Grey Fang, Direct West Ridge | TD 5.10 b solo | 440 v.meter |
1999 Canada | |||
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier | Canadian Cliff, Aqua Buttress | 5.9 | 6 pitches |
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier | Canadian Cliff, H2O | 5.10b | 3+4 pitches |
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier | Canadian Cliff, Shane's Limbo | 5.10b | 7 pitches |
2000 Canada | |||
Roger's Pass BC | Mt. Green, North Face | WI 5 | 300 v.meters |
Roger's Pass BC | Cougar Mtn. S-Side, Confused Ambition | WI 5- | 60 v.meters |
Revelstoke, Begbie Bluffs | Dr. Evil | 5.12a | 1 pitch |
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier | Canadian Cliff, David | 5.10c | 6 pitches |
2001 Canada | |||
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Empress Peak, Poltergeist | 5.10c | 6 pitches |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Silent Peak, Rock'n Silence | TD 5.11a | 13 pitches |
2002 Canada | |||
Roger's Pass BC | Camels - Mt. Tupper Integral East Ridge | TD 5.10a | 1500 v.meter/ 2.1 km |
Revelstoke, Silvertip C. | Indian Summer | 5.12b | 1 pitch |
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier | Twin Falls Cliff, Le Mirroir d'Durrand | 5.10d | 7 pitches |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Salbyt Pk, Integral Innominata Ridge | D 5.9 | 800 v.meter/ 2.2 km |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Empress Peak, Bellissimo | 5.12a | 7 pitches |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Empress Peak, Granite World | 5.10c | 5 pitches |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Fridolin Peak, Bringing Out the Devil | 5.10c | 6 pitches |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Silent Peak, Silent Grace | TD 5.11a | 11 pitches |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Zwilling's East Pk, Epilogue | D 5.9 | 350 v.meter |
2003 Canada | |||
Revelstoke BC | Waterworld, Desporado's Last Ride | 5.10d | 1 pitch |
Revelstoke BC | Mermaid | 5.11a | 4 pitches |
Revelstoke BC | Drive-In, Great Ball of Fire | 5.11b | 1 pitch |
Revelstoke BC | Begbie Falls Wall, Rain Came Down | 5.10d | 1 pitch |
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier | Carnes Cliff, A Date with My Girl | 5.8 | 7 pitches |
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier | Carnes Cliff, Grace and Force | 5.11a | 6 pitches |
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier | Carnes Cliff, Jaegermeister's Harem | 5.11a | 2 pitches |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Fridolin Peak, Mama Mia | TD 5.10c | 8 pitches |
2004 Canada | |||
Revelstoke BC | Waterworld, Burning Ambition | 5.12a | 3 pitches |
Revelstoke BC | Waterworld, Raven's Destiny | 5.11b | 3 pitches |
Revelstoke BC | Waterworld, Ginger | 5.9 | 2 pitches |
Revelstoke BC | Waterworld, Skipper | 5.11a | 1 pitch |
Revelstoke BC | Waterworld, No Panic in The Titanic | 5.11b | 2 pitches |
Revelstoke BC | Waterworld, Madness | 5.11b | 2 pitches |
Revelstoke BC | Waterworld, The Boulevard | 5.9 | 2 pitches |
Revelstoke BC | Waterworld, Mutiny | 5.10c | 3 pitches |
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier | Carnes Cliff, Five Decades | 5.9 | 1 pitch |
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier | Carnes Cliff, The Groove | 5.8 | 1 pitch |
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier | Carnes Cliff, Aqua Birthday | 5.9 | 1 pitch |
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier | Carnes Cliff, White Water Climbing | 5.9 | 1 pitch |
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier | Carnes Cliff, Girly Cabaret | 5.9 | 7 pitches |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Empress Peak, Paradise City | 5.11b | 7 pitches |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Empress Peak, Areta Rasica | 5.11a | 7 pitches |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Fridolin Buttress, Lightning Fear | 5.11a | 2 pitches |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Fridolin Buttress, Bionic Man | 5.10c | 1 pitch |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Fridolin Buttress, Selkirk Soiree | 5.10b | 1 pitch |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Fridolin Buttress, Selkirk Arête | 5.11b | 2 pitches |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Fridolin Buttress, Rainy Day-Dream | 5.11a | 2 pitches |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Fridolin Buttress, Rainman | 5.10d | 2 pitches |
2005 Canada | |||
Revelstoke BC | Waterworld, Bon Voyage | 5.11a | 4 pitches |
Revelstoke BC | Le Grand Bleu | 5.10d | 4 pitches |
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier | Carnes Cliff, Left Wing | 5.9 | 1 pitch |
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier | Carnes Cliff, Right Wing | 5.10c | 1 pitch |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Innominata Face, Obsessed Adventure | TD 5.11b | 12 pitches |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Concordia Pillar, Hillbilly Highway | ED- 5.12b A0 | 17 pitches |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Empress Peak, Copperhead Road | 5.10c | 4 pitches |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Concordia Pillar, The Naked Pillar | TD 5.11a | 17 pitches |
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier | Empress Peak, Pina Colada | 5.10b | 9 pitches |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Empress Peak, Heidi-Land | 5.9 | 8 pitches |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Sentinel Slabs, Rock Town | 5.9 | 3 pitches |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Zwilling's East, Prologue | 5.10c | 9 pitches |
2006 Canada | |||
Revelstoke BC | Waterworld, Pirots of The Waterworld | 5.10b | 3 pitches |
Revelstoke BC | Waterworld, Walk of Life | 5.11a | 3 pitches |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Innominata Face, Hot Attraction | TD 5.10c | 13 pitches |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Empress Peak, Micheluzzi | 5.11b | 6 pitches |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Empress Peak, Direct West-Face Slabs | 5.10d | 8 pitches |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Sentinel South, SW-Ridge | PD 5.6 | 1 km |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Sentinel Slabs, Meditation | 5.8 | 3 pitches |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Sentinel Slabs, Dihedral Blues | 5.8 | 3 pitches |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Sentinel Slabs, Slab-Crack | 5.8 | 3 pitches |
2007 Canada | |||
Revelstoke BC | Waterworld, Ambitious Raven | 5.11b | 3 pitches |
Three Valley Gap BC | Tourist Wall, Johnny B. Goode | 5.10b | 3 pitches |
Three Valley Gap BC | Crystal in The Sky | 5.10b | 3 pitches |
N.Selkirks, Durrand Glacier | Mt.Durrand, Northstep Couloir | D 5.6 / 50 degr. | 500 v.meter |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Innominata Face, Dance Me to The End... | TD 5.10c | 11 pitches |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Innominata Face, Daydreamer | D+ 5.10a | 7 pitches |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Innominata Face, Rather Climb and Live | TD- 5.10b | 7 pitches |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Moloch Crag, Rednecks Just Don't Get It | 5.10b | 2 pitches |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Moloch Crag, An Inconvenient Truth | 5.12a | 1 pitch |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Moloch Crag, Live Earth | 5.11a | 1 pitch |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Moloch Crag, Mourning the Planet | 5.10c | 1 pitch |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Moloch Crag, Where Have the Glaciers Gone | 5.11a | 3 pitches |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Zwilling's East, Direct South Ridge | TD 5.10c | 18 pitches |
2008 Canada | |||
Revelstoke BC | Columbia Buttress, The Hanging Judge | 5.10b | 5 pitches |
Revelstoke BC | Columbia Buttress, Convicted | 5.11b | 6 pitches |
Revelstoke BC | Columbia Buttress, The Noose | 5.11c | 16 pitches |
Revelstoke BC | Columbia Buttress, The Last Tango | 5.10a | 16 pitches |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Fridolin Wall, Avventura Sulla Roccia | 5.11a | 1 pitch |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Fridolin Wall, Via Bonatti | 5.10d | 2 pitches |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Fridolin Wall, Dances with The Ghosts | 5.10d | 3 pitches |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Fridolin Wall, Emilio Comici | 5.11a | 2 pitches |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Fridolin Wall, Cross Road | 5.10b | 3 pitches |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Hidden Wall, Ghost Rider | 5.10b | 3 pitches |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Hidden Wall, Utopia | 5.10b | 3 pitches |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Hidden Wall, Gino Solda | 5.10c | 3 pitches |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Hidden Wall, Detoured Express | 5.10b | 3 pitches |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Berlin Wall, Jumping The Wall | 5.11b | 3 pitches |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Berlin Wall, Walk The Line | 5.10c | 8 pitches |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Sentinel South, Skywalker | 5.10d | 2 pitches |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Sentinel Slabs, Penelope's Trot | 5.9 | 3 pitches |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Fridolin Peak, El Arête Sin Nombre | D 5.9 | 9 pitches |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Moloch Crag, Pink Floyd | 5.8 | 1 pitch |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Moloch Crag, Led Zeppelin | 5.8 | 1 pitch |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Moloch Crag, The Stones | 5.10a | 1 pitch |
N.Selkirks, Moloch Range | Moloch Crag, U2 | 5.9 | 1 pitch |
2009 Canada | |||
N Selkirk, Moloch Range | Mt.Baal NW-Ridge | D 5.5 50 degr. | 400 v.m / 0.9 km |
N Selkirk, Moloch Range | Fridolin Buttress, Cheeders of the Last Arc | 5.11d | 2 pitches |
N Selkirk, Moloch Range | Fridolin Wall, Careless Mind | 5.11c | 2 pitches |
N Selkirk, Moloch Range | Fridolin Wall, O Solo Mia | 5.11a | 2 pitches |
N Selkirk, Moloch Range | Moloch Crag, Solar Pannel | 5.10c | 2 pitches |
N Selkirk, Moloch Range | Moloch Crag, Greenhouse Effect | 5.11a | 2 pitches |
N Selkirk, Moloch Range | Innominata Tower Direct North Ridge | 5.10d | 420 v.m / 1 km |
N Selkirk, Moloch Range | Fridolin Buttress, The Diagonal | 5.8 | 2 pitches |
N Selkirk, Moloch Range | Fridolin Buttress, Puls | 5.10d | 2 pitches |
N Selkirk, Moloch Range | Sentinel Slabs, Dancing Queen | 5.10c | 4 pitches |
N Selkirk, Moloch Range | Sentinel Buttress, Lightning Crack | 5.10c | 2 pitches |
N Selkirk, Moloch Range | Mt.Fang, Homocidal Bitch | 5.9 | 26 pitches |
Columbia Buttress, Revelstoke | Eternity | 5.10b | 13 pitches |
Upper Blanket Wall, Revelstoke | High Exposure | 5.9 | 2 pitches |
Shampoo Wall, Revelstoke | Tree Rustler | 5.10c | 1 pitch |
2010 Canada | |||
N Selkirk, Moloch Range | Concordia Pillar, Viva La Vita | 5.13a | 11 pitches |
N Selkirk, Moloch Range | Fridolin Buttress, Rock Poets | 5.10b | 2 pitches |
N Selkirk, Moloch Range | Fridolin Buttress, Short Story | 5.11a | 1 pitch |
N Selkirk, Moloch Range | Fridolin Buttress, Torre Piccolo | 5.10a | 1 pitch |
N Selkirk, Moloch Range | Fridolin Buttress, Little Big Man | 5.10b | 1 pitch |
N Selkirk, Moloch Range | Concordia Pillar, The Northern Shield First free ascent by Tommy Caldwell, 5.13b July 17 2011 |
5.12c A0 | 6 pitches |
N Selkirk, Moloch Range | Fridolin Wall, Ace in the Hole | 5.11d | 2 pitches |
Revelstoke BC | Victor Lake Wall, Ninth Symphony | 5.11d | 12 pitches |
2011 Canada | |||
Revelstoke BC | Victor Lake Wall, Return of the Osprey | 5.11c | 12 pitches |
Revelstoke BC | Victor Lake Wall, Restless Spirits | 5.11d | 7 pitches |
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range | Oar House, Lightning Rod | 5.10b | 2 pitches |
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range | Moloch Crag, Lurking Challenge | 5.11d | 2 pitches |
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range | Moloch Crag, Ice Age | 5.10d | 1 pitch |
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range | Innominata Face, Fantastico | 5.12a | 9 pitches |
Revelstoke BC | Victor Lake Wall, Trans Canada | 5.10c | 11 pitches |
Revelstoke BC | Victor Lake Wall, Pan-America | 5.10c | 15 pitches |
2012 Canada | |||
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range | Upper Ore House, Tower of Song | 5.10c | 2 pitches |
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range | Upper Ore House, Spaziergang | 5.11b | 2 pitches |
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range | Upper Ore House, Umweg | 5.11c | 3 pitches |
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range | Upper Ore House, Wanderlust | 5.11b | 2 pitches |
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range | Lower Ore House, Ore House Arête | 5.10c | 2 pitches |
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range | Lower Ore House, Greenlight District | 5.9 | 3 pitches |
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range | Lower Ore House, Never Say Never | 5.11b | 1 pitch |
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range | Lower Ore House, Adapt or Die | 5.12a | 1 pitch |
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range | Moloch Crag, Solar Panel Direct | 5.11c | 2 pitches |
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range | Moloch Crag, The Who | 5.8+ | 2 pitches |
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range | Moloch Crag, Steppenwolf | 5.10b | 1 pitch |
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range | Lower Ore House, Empty Nest | 5.8 | 8 pitches |
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range | Innominata Face, Fantastico | 5.11b | 10 pitches |
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range | Juliana Buttress, The Corner | 5.10c | 3 pitches |
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range | Juliana Buttress, Glacier Express | 5.10c | 6 pitches |
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range | Juliana Buttress, The Line | 5.10d | 3 pitches |
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range | Upper Ore House, Caffé Latte | 5.11c | 2 pitches |
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range | Upper Ore House, Surprice | 5.11d | 2 pitches |
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range | Mt.Baal - Mt.Moloch, Intergral Traverse Mt.Baal West-Ridge NW-Couloir - Baal NW-Ridge - Traverse to Mt.Moloch - Mt.Moloch East Summit |
5.9 / 55 degr. ice |
762 vert. metres 3300 metre long ridge |
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range | Sentinel Slabs, Mami's Abenteuer | 5.10b | 4 pitches |
Revelstoke BC | Victor Lake Wall, The Last Spike | 5.10c | 10 pitches |
2013 Canada | |||
Revelstoke BC | Victor Lake Wall, The Last Spike | 5.10c | 10 pitches |
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range | Hidden Wall, Idealists in the Mist | 5.8 | 4 pitches |
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range | Sentinel Slabs, Nutcracker | 5.9 | 3 pitches |
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range | Lower Ore House, Fission | 5.12a | 1 pitch |
Revelstoke BC | Victor Lake, Mystery | 5.12c | 9 pitches |
Revelstoke BC | Victor Lake, Grande Finale | 5.12c | 7 pitches |
2014 Canada | |||
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range | Euphony Wall, Superlative | 5.13a | 7 pitches |
Revelstoke BC | Victor Lake Wall, Vertical Poetry | 5.10b | 8 pitches |
2015 Canada | |||
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range | Euphony Wall, Take This Waltz | 5.9 | 5 pitches |
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range | Euphony Wall, Panorama | 5.10c | 5 pitches |
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range | Juliana Buttress, Concordia Plaisir | 5.9 | 5 pitches |
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range | Juliana Buttress, Open Book | 5.10b | 4 pitches |
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range | Moloch Crags, Climate Change | 5.10c | 2 pitches |
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range | Moloch Crags, Global Warming | 5.11b | 1 pitch |
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range | Innominata Apron, Just Because | 5.11b | 4 pitches |
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range | Innominata Apron, Andiamo | 5.12a | 3 pitches |
Revelstoke BC | Victor Lake Wall, Revelstoke Aréte | 5.11c | 7+6 pitches |
Revelstoke BC | Victor Lake Wall, Satisfaction | 5.10c | 12 pitches |
Revelstoke BC | Victor Lake Wall, The Intruder | 5.11c | 11 pitches |
2016 Canada | |||
N. Selkirks, Moloch Range | Innominata Apron, Sound of the Rain | 5.10c | 2 pitches |
N. Selkirks, Moloch Range | Innominata Apron, Inquisitive Goat | 5.8 | 5 pitches |
N. Selkirks, Moloch Range | Innominata Apron, Stonemasters | 5.10d | 5 pitches |
N. Selkirks, Moloch Range | Innominata Apron, Granada | 5.11a | 5 pitches |
N. Selkirks, Moloch Range | Innominata Apron, Granada Detour | 5.10a | 5 pitches |
N. Selkirks, Moloch Range | Juliana Buttress, Stone Monkeys | 5.11a | 4 pitches |
N. Selkirks, Moloch Range | Juliana Buttress, Wild Flower | 5.8+ | 3 pitches |
N. Selkirks, Moloch Range | Lower Ore House, False Gold | 5.10c | 4 pitches |
N. Selkirks, Moloch Range | Moloch Crags, Coffee Shop Climbers | 5.10b | 2 pitches |
N. Selkirks, Moloch Range | Moloch Crags, Valley Dreams | 5.10a | 1 pitch |
N. Selkirks, Moloch Range | Moloch Crags, The Story | 5.8 | 2 pitches |
N. Selkirks, Moloch Range | Granite Lake Area, Waterslide | 5.4 | 2 pitches |
N. Selkirks, Moloch Range | Granite Lake Area, Dancing with the Moonlight | 5.6 | 2 pitches |
N. Selkirks, Moloch Range | Granite Lake Area, Heat of the Night | 5.10c | 4 pitches |
N. Selkirks, Moloch Range | Granite Lake Area, Lake Shore Picnic | 5.10a | 4 pitches |
N. Selkirks, Moloch Range | Granite Lake Area, Bella Finale | 5.10a | 4 pitches |
Revelstoke, BC | Jorden River Walls, Easy Rider | 5.8+ | 2 pitches |
2017 Canada | |||
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range | Concordia West Buttress, Deno (lower) | 5.10c | 6 pitches |
Revelstoke BC | Mulvehill Canyon, In Between | 5.10b | 1 pitch |
Revelstoke BC | Jordan River Walls, Dean-Bean | 5.10c | 3 pitches |
Revelstoke BC | Jordan River Walls, Plaisir | 5.10c | 3 pitches |
Revelstoke BC | Jordan River Walls, Areta Fantastico | 5.9 | 3 pitches |
2018 Canada | |||
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range | Innominata Apron, Incredible | 5.11b | 3 pitches |
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range | Innominata Apron, Sempre Libera | 5.11b | 4 pitches |
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range | Innominata Apron, Life Goes On | 5.10c | 4 pitches |
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range | Concordia West Buttress. Super Deno | 5.11c | 6 pitches |
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range | Concordia West Buttress, Pilsner Power | 5.11a | 4 pitches |
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range | Sentinel Slabs, Sail On | 5.11a | 4 pitches |
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range | Sentinel Slabs, Slabtacular | 5.10c | 3 pitches |
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range | B.C. Wall, Apero Time | 5.9 | 3 pitches |
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range | B.C. Wall, I don't know | 5.10c | 3 pitches |
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range | B.C. Wall, Old Friends | 5.10a | 3 pitches |
2019 Canada | |||
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range | Innominata Apron, Dream On | 5.8 | 6 pitches |
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range | Innominata Apron, Born to Climb | 5.10b | 2 pitches |
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range | Moloch West Crag, Solar Flare | 5.10b | 1 pitch |
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range | Moloch West Crag, 5.8 you kidding? | 5.11b | 1 pitch |
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range | Moloch West Crag, Believe | 5.11b | 1 pitch |
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range | Rock'n Roll Crag, Rock'n Roll is in | 5.11a | 1 pitch |
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range | Rock'n Roll Crag, Would you like this Dance | 5.9 | 1 pitch |
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range | Pinocchio Buttress, Steep Start | 5.9 | 1 pitch |
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range | Pinocchio Buttress, Crack Master Pinocchio | 5.8 | 1 pitch |
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range | Pinocchio Buttress, Pinocchio's Nose | 5.10b | 1 pitch |
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range | Pinocchio Buttress, Graceful | 5.9 | 1 pitch |
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range | Pinocchio Buttress, Pinocchio Corner | 5.8 | 1 pitch |
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range | Hidden Wall, A.H.V. | 5.8 | 3 pitches |
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range | Hidden Wall, Ooh-La-La | 5.11b | 3 pitches |
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range | Waterworld, Captain Hook | 5.11a | 4 pitches |
N. Selkirk, Moloch Range | Waterworld, Sea Monster | 5.11b | 4 pitches |